Also, they list “boiling point” in 3 numbers…where the first number is “5% of the gas is boiling”, the second is like “50% of the gas is boiling” and the last one is 100%. Gas is blended with different additives at different times of the year. I tried to find exact data, but it’s hard. Likely it stays hotter with the hood down. So, with the standard routing of the fuel line from the fuel pump, across the front top of the engine and into the carb…we go from about 95 degrees to a solid 120 most of the run, and we pass into the carb over the intake/exhaust manifolds that go from 360 degrees to 167 in less than 10 inches. * At phenolic block on carb- 93.7 degrees * At exhaust manifold, right at head - 360.7 degrees * At exhaust manifold, halfway to carb - 272.5 degrees * At intake manifold, near head - 169.5 degrees * Top of head, near radiator line- 119 degrees * At head, near water spout, right side- 134 degrees Here are some spot temperatures after a 20 minute warm up drive on a 65 degree California Fall day: I wanted to see where in the engine bay is hot, so I could route the fuel line away. Am I gonna put a computer and extra wiring in now? Ugh!įirst thing first, I bought a temp gun to get temp readings in places. But I got a Series because I wanted a classic, mechanical, simple car. Without a ‘dead man’ switch, they just keep pumping gas if there’s voltage…so if you get in a crash, they just keep squiring fuel on your burning bones. I have my gripes about each method…so I started from the lowest one first. Or, the nuclear option, get an after market fuel injection kit. Or, run a recirculating fuel filter and electric fuel pump to constantly move hot gasoline in the line back into the cold fuel tank. Either you shield/cool the lines and or carb. It literally boils and turns to a gaseous state in the lines or the bowl and your engine is starved. So, on low pressure (carburrated) systems, the gas sits in the lines until the float bowl empties and asks for more fuel. The problem seems to be that ethanol in gas (E85, etc) lowered the boiling point of gas in the last 15 years or so. Worked okay for a time, and the symptoms returned! Some research into the problem, and it seems everyone with old cars is having this problem now - Vapor Lock - due to new gas additives like ethanol making the boiling point of gas much lower. I threw all kinds of parts at it: new Webber carburetor, new Pertronix distributor, new mechanical fuel pump. I’ve been dancing around this problem for a year now - stalling, hard starting when hot, leaving me stuck at intersections in the left turn lane and the Series won’t start back up.
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